F1 Roc - Race of Champions
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RACE OF CHAMPIONS
RACE OF CHAMPIONS
RACE OF CHAMPIONS
RACE OF CHAMPIONS
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Table of Contents
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[INTRO] Introduction
[VERSN] Version History
[NOTES] FAQ's and General Tips
[SETUP] Car Setup Tips
[MODES] Modes of Play
[TRACK] Track Strategies
[RECOR] Record Times
[GENIE] Game Genie Codes
[FORM1] Comparing with Reality
[COPYR] Copyright/Contact Information
Use the Find feature (Ctrl-F) to find what you're looking for. For example,
search for [GENIE] to jump to the Game Genie codes.
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Introduction [INTRO]
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F1 Roc: Race of Champions is one of the best Formula One racing games for the
Super NES, and no one has written a Walkthrough/FAQ's section for it. It's been
over two and a half years since I last completed a strategy guide for a video
game, and that was before I had heard of GameFAQs.com. There's a chance that I
might reprocess some of my old guides into a suitable GameFAQs format, or I
might even start writing new guides! Stay tuned.
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Version History [VERSN]
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0.1 Began work on the guide on 8/24/07.
0.2 Experimented with the effects of different equipment, typed most of
FAQ's, and began track guides on 8/27/07.
0.3 Changed many things on 9/7/07. Completed first four track guides and
some of San Marino.
0.5 Got back to work on 11/5/07 after losing interest. Finished San Marino.
Began and completed Spain, Portugal, and Mexico.
0.8 Did Hungary, France, Canada, Belgium, Australia, and U.S.A on 11/7/07.
0.9 Did the Monaco and Japan track guides on 11/8/07.
1.0 Made some finishing touches and finally finished the guide on 11/9/07.
Added contact information on 11/15/07. Submitted guide to GameFAQs.com on
11/16/07.
As you may be able to see, I worked on this rather sporadically (it didn't
really take this long to type). In all likelihood, this is the final edition of
this guide. However, I'll update this guide if I discover something really
interesting.
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FAQ's and General Tips [NOTES]
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Q: What are the controls?
A: The controls are pretty simple:
B button: Gas pedal
A button: Use nitro fuel (if you have any)
Y button: Brake
L button: Shift gears down
R button: Shift gears up
Start: Pause
Control pad: Steer left or right
Q: How can I use a manual transmission?
A: Basically, you can't. You have an automatic transmission, but you can press
L and R to change gears. There isn't much point in doing so in this game,
although some players might use the L button as a way to quickly slow down for
sharp turns.
Q: I don't like driving in rain. Is there any way I can guarantee that I'll be
on a dry course?
A: If there's a rain cloud icon above the track when you select it, you know
there will be rain during the qualifying and race. Return to the main menu and
select the race again. Because the rain appears randomly (approximately 15%),
you will probably have a dry track next time.
Q: Is there any way I can change the number of laps in a race?
A: Not unless you change the mode.
Q: Why shouldn't I go off the road?
A: Because you lose speed when you're driving on the grass. You should know
that. In fact, sustained off-road driving reduces your speed by almost half.
Q: What good are pit stops?
A: Since gas isn't consumed in this game, pit stops are only used to repair
damage so you won't have to pay a financial penalty at the end of the race if
your car gets damaged (caused by hitting another car or a wall). Pit stops take
a lot of time, so only go into pit lane if you're well off the pace and
unusually curious.
Q: How do I keep my car from going off the road?
A: You could play some more and improve your skill. That's one way. Try
increasing your car's grip with wing, diffuser, chassis, and tire upgrades (the
more expensive, the better). If you need a moment to consider how to approach
the next turn, just press START to pause the game. That can help, too.
Q: Are there any video games besides this one that contain advertisements for
cigarette companies?
A: Not to my knowledge.
Q: What's the highest numbers for the "grip" gauge you can achieve?
A: I've experimented with this, and it's 23-22-23.
Q: What's the difference in acceleration between a high-grip setting and a
low-grip setting?
A: I tried changing the front wings, rear wings, and diffusers on a Chassis 3
car with a Honda engine. The high-grip setting took 5.6 seconds to reach 339
MPH, while the low-grip setting took 5.15 seconds. Most of the time, I would
prefer the high-grip setting (so I don't have to decelerate much in the first
place).
Q: Why does the driver select screen background show the words "Exhaust Heat?"
A: Exhaust Heat is the Japanese name for F1 Roc: Race of Champions, which is
the American name of the game we're playing.
Q: Why aren't the courses in the actual order of events in the real 1991
Formula One season?
A: In F1 Roc: Race of Champions, the courses are designed to become
progressively more challenging as you go along. See [FORM1] for more
information.
Q: What happens when you complete the last race of a season?
A: You begin a new season, keeping all money and parts you obtained in the
previous season. Obviously, this makes future seasons much easier. As far as I
know, you can complete the season as many times as you want, since seasons in
this game loop endlessly.
Q: Are there are any hidden tracks?
A: Sort of. At Monaco, there's a very narrow gap in the wall near the end of
the course. If you go fast enough, you can drive through this barrier and float
over the water. Eventually you'll come to a very short track. Interestingly, it
has a start-finish line and a blocked-off pit road. You can drive around it as
many times as you want until you get bored. There really isn't anything useful
you can do here, but it's certainly interesting. If you want to leave, though,
you must go back the way you came (or reset). It's best that you try this in
Training mode.
Q: Will giving my player a weird name do anything interesting?
A: If you name your player SOUND or OTO, a music test screen will appear. Press
up or down to cycle through the tunes and B to play them. Supposedly, if you
name your player CASINO, you'll be able to play a slot machine mini-game to
earn bonus money after the Monaco Grand Prix, although I haven't been able to
authenticate that. Also, the name SETAUSA (or SETUSA) will give you an extra
$10,000 to work with.
Q: Are there any mispelled words or errors in grammar and mechanics in this
document?
A: Only one, and it's in the last sentence.
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Car Setup Tips [SETUP]
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Before we talk about the fun stuff, let's first take a look at the prices of
each part:
Chassis: Type 1 (free), Type 2 (6000), Type 3 (15000)
Transmission: 4-speed (free), 5-speed (2000), 6-speed (3500), 7-speed (6000)
Brakes: Normal (free), carbon (1500), antilock (4000)
Suspension: Soft (free), hard (500), active (3000)
Diffuser: Normal (free), small (1000), large (1000), special (4500)
Front wing: Normal (free), low-downforce (1000), high-downforce (4000),
special-low-downforce (6000), special-W (8500)
Rear wing: Normal (free), low-downforce (1000), high-downforce (7000)
Tires: Spare (free), rain (300), normal (150), high-grip (200), special (350)
Engine: Jadd V8 (free), Foro V8 (3000), Ilmoa V10 (7000), Renarty V10 (10000),
Ferrari V12 (17000), Honda V12 (22000)
Nitro: 2 liters (500), 3 liters (700), 4 liters (1000)
Remember that you can't keep any parts you buy in Training mode, although you
also won't lose any of the money you spent.
Now let's see what happens when you upgrade each part:
Chassis
Chassis 2 doesn't help you much at all. Chassis 3 improves your downforce
without hurting acceleration. My advice is to buy Chassis 3 near the very end
of your first season and to avoid buying Chassis 2 altogether.
Transmission
It's my empirical belief that the choice of transmission has relatively little
bearing on performance.
Brakes
Carbon brakes slow your car more effectively than do normal brakes. Antilock
brakes are even better. Buy the antilock brakes after making a significant
engine upgrade, and don't bother with the carbon brakes. According to my
research, here are the times it takes each braking system to slow a 364-KPH car
to 0 KPH: 3.4 seconds (antilock), 3.71 seconds (carbon), 4.24 seconds (normal).
Those 0.84 seconds come in handy at the U.S.A. and Monaco tracks.
Suspension
Both hard and active suspension boost downforce and help acceleration, although
hard suspension actually hurts braking. Since the active suspension is better,
I wouldn't buy hard suspension. You might want to buy active suspension around
the third quarter of your season, but it isn't your top priority.
Diffuser
This might be your lowest upgrade priority. However, the Special diffuser is
helpful in the fourth quarter of your first season.
Front wing
Don't bother with LOW-DF or HIGH-DF. However, SPECIAL-L and especially
SPECIAL-W can be helpful near the end of the year.
Rear wing
The LOW-DF rear wing reduces downforce and boosts acceleration. I probably
wouldn't buy it, although it could be helpful early in the game. The HIGH-DF
rear wing increases downforce while hurting acceleration. It improves times on
the later tracks, but it's not necessary early on.
Tires
The default (and free) option are spare tires, which don't give you much grip.
If it's raining, fork over the $300 for rain tires. If it's not raining, it's a
good investment to pay for the normal tires. On the later tracks, buy the
high-grip or special tires. Remember that you can't keep tires for future
races; they're one-time-use, although you can buy tires before qualifying and
then keep them for the race.
Engine
Engine upgrades help you far more than any of the other parts, but I'm still a
little uncertain about the best engine upgrade strategy. You start off with the
Jadd V8 engine, which offers very little power. This graph could help:
Engine Top Speed Nitro Speed Horsepower
Jadd 262 268 620
Foro 282 307 650
Ilmoa 294 320 695
Renarty 310 336 680
Ferrari 326 353 710
Honda 339 365 725
The odd-numbered engines (Jadd, Ilmoa, and Ferrari) seem to have better
acceleration, while the even-numbered ones boast more power. I suggest that you
NOT buy any upgrades early on (except nitro fuel), saving up enough money to
buy the Ilmoa V10. Then consider getting the active suspension and/or antilock
brakes, but focus on accumulating enough money to purchase a Ferrari or Honda
engine. At that point, boost grip with wing, diffuser, and chassis upgrades. I
write a little more about this in the Modes of Play section.
Nitro
Nitro is easy to explain. The more nitro fuel you have, the longer you'll be
able to use the Nitro Boost feature. If you have enough money, buy four liters
of nitro for every race (except maybe U.S.A., Monaco, and Japan), and maybe
even two or three liters for qualifying.
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Modes of Play [MODES]
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On the opening screen, select RECORDS if you want to view your record times for
races and training (but not Test Runs or qualifying sessions). Otherwise,
select START. From here, you can select an existing save file or create a new
one. After that, Training lets you run a single race on a default car with
$21,000 to spend on adjustments, while Grand Prix is more interesting. There's
also Config, a place to look at technical settings you'll never need to look
at. We'll talk about Grand Prix mode in the next paragraph.
In Grand Prix mode, you can select Test Run or Race. Test Run lets you practice
two laps at the track of your choice using your Grand Prix car. Unlike Training
mode, you'll have access to any upgrades you've unlocked. In addition, there
are no cars on the road and the race lasts only two laps. Essentially, it's
like a qualifying session. Don't buy nitro fuel or tire upgrades, though, or
you'll lose that amount of money in Grand Prix mode.
If you select Race, you will begin qualifying for the next race in your save
file's grand prix season. As they say so often on SPEED TV's telecasts of
Formula One events, "Before you can race, you must qualify." Keep in mind that
only the second lap time counts. In the race, you compete against seven other
drivers and compete for points and prize money. You can use this prize money to
upgrade your car in future races. If you have the most points at the end of the
season, you'll win the championship and get a monetary bonus.
Anything you buy in Grand Prix mode (such as a Large Diffuser) can be used in
all future races, test runs, or qualifying events in Grand Prix mode, with the
exception of tires and nitro fuel. If you upgrade your tires, make sure to do
so before you qualify, as tire upgrades apply for the both the qualifying
session and race (but not future races). Also, unused nitro fuel in qualifying
carries over to the race.
One more oddity: You lose $1,000 after each qualifying session (for some
reason), unless you have less than $1,000. To prevent this from happening, you
might want to try to spend all your money on the Car Setup screen in qualifying
(unless you're saving up for a big engine upgrade or something), even if this
means buying a suspension or brake upgrade. I wouldn't worry too much about
this, though. Nothing bad happens if you're unable to pay the $1,000 because of
insufficient funds, either.
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Track Strategies [TRACK]
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Here are some tips for each course.
Caution: It's a good idea to do at least one Test Run on each course before
attempting to qualify. On some courses, it's advisable to practice six or seven
times before qualifying.
Caution number two: Even though these tracks aren't fictitious, these track
guides are not necessarily interchangeable with other Formula One video games
(or real life, if you decide to join the Super Aguri team next year).
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One more note: Four different road signs may appear on your screen right before
a turn (eight if you include both directions).
The gentlest turns (I often call them "gentle curves") are about 30 degrees and
should pose no difficulty whatsoever, unless they're followed by a sharper
turn, which can make them especially tough. Long gentle curves are usually
considered "sweeping."
"Sharp" turns (about 90 degrees) are a little trickier. "Quick" turns are
basically sharp turns that don't seem to last very long (you'll know them when
you see them). Consecutive sharp turns of the same direction are often referred
to as "sweeping turns" or "hairpins," depending on their nature.
"Hairpins" are about 180 degrees. These usually require some braking action,
and some are quite challenging.
"Chicanes" go one way, and then the other way. Sometimes you can use nitro fuel
through them, while other times you might need to brake some.
Caution number three: There are many shades of variation within the four main
types of turns.
Now on to the strategies!
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Italy (Monza)
If you like speed, this is the course for you. Unless you have a very odd car
setup, you shouldn't have to apply the brakes a single time at Italy. This is a
good place to get four liters of nitro fuel. Downforce isn't very important
here. An early straight is broken up by a series of quick chicanes. You don't
need to steer much until you come to a gentle sweeping right turn. Decent
straightaway. A wider chicane that starts left. You'll need to steer some. A
sharp right turn. You might need to brake if your line isn't right. The quick
right turn after that shouldn't be any problem, and then there's another
straightaway. The quick, sharp left turn can tough if you're not expecting it,
and after that there's a little chicane. You'll soon come to a sharp right turn
(braking could be required), and that's about it. One final note: In race mode,
it's often quite difficult to finish in first place, even with flawless driving
and optimal equipment.
Great Britain (Silverstone)
Also easy, but tougher than Italy. Long straightway. Quick 90-degree
right-hander. A straightaway, followed by a gentle chicane and a not-so-gentle
curve. It's easy to go off the road if you're going too fast. Medium
straightaway. Gentle curve, sharp right, sharp left. This is probably the
toughest part of the track. You'll probably find yourself messing up the lawn
the first few times here. There's also a wall jutting out in a hittable place.
A left turn that's not nearly as gentle as you think it is. Fairly sharp right.
Straightaway. Easy left. Not-too-tough right. Long left turn, followed by short
right. Sharp right, short straight, gentle right, straightaway, that's it.
Germany (Hockenheim)
Another good nitro place, so buy four liters. Germany has more opportunities
for high speed than Britain, but there are also more sharp turns. Start. Long
straightaway. A series of gentle right curves. Straightaway. Chicane. The
second part is sharper than the first, so exercise caution. A fast stretch
broken up by a tricky chicane. More gentle rights and straights. Three gentle
curves. Now entering the slower stretch. Sharp right. The first hairpin you've
seen so far, but it's not as sharp as it looks. Fairly sharp right followed by
another right. That's all, folks.
Brazil (Sao Paulo)
Brazil has some of the game's longest straightaways and sharpest turns. Some
players might opt to increase grip by changing wings, diffusers, and/or tires.
If you have some money, buy nitro. Long straight. Tricky left. Gentle right.
Long left. Very long straight. SLOOOOOOW left hairpin. You definitely need to
put on the brakes here. Short straight. Gentle left. Short left that's really
long. Very short straight. Sharp right. Very short straight. Left hairpin.
Quick right. Another hairpin, but slightly easier. A little right. Sharp left.
Short straight, sweeping left. Pretty long straight, with three gentle lefts.
Now you're back at the finish line.
San Marino (Imola)
This isn't an extremely exciting track. Long straightaway. Fast sweeping left.
Medium straightaway, gentle right, left hairpin. Straightaway with two gentle
curves. Easy left. Short straightaway. Chicane. Sharp right could be trouble if
you didn't pick the proper line after the chicane. Medium straight. Gentle
curve. Sharp left, immediately followed by a sharp right and a gentle left. The
next gentle right should be easy, but watch out for two fairly sharp lefts in
succession. Decent straight and a tricky chicane before reaching the finish
line.
Spain (Catalunya)
This track has long straightaways followed by sharp turns, thus requiring hard
braking. You start off with a VERY long straightaway, followed by a sharp right
and a sharp left. A very long sweeping right is ahead; it shouldn't give you
any problems. After a short straightaway, you'll have to traverse two sharp
right turns. Next is a tricky left hairpin, although it's not too tough if you
don't go too fast. After a long straight, don't let the gentle left put you to
sleep; the next left is pretty sharp and returns to the right. Another
straightaway, and a somewhat more sweeping right. The next straightaway is
broken up by an easy-to-manage chicane, but beware of the left hairpin up
ahead. A slightly curved straightaway gives way to a right hairpin and a
sweeping right. A quick right then returns you to the start.
Portugal (Estoril)
This is a lot like Spain, but the turns are a bit sharper. Long straight. Quick
right. Medium straight. Sweeping right. Sharper right. Deceptively tough left;
it gets sharper later in the turn. Medium straight, quick left, medium
straight. Slow left hairpin, quick left. Medium straight, quick left. Tough
sharp left; take it slowly. Quick right. Sharp left, long sweeping right. After
a very long straightaway, we're back where we started.
Mexico (Hermanos Rodriguez)
This track, which looks a little like a triangle, has some things in common
with Portugal. Nitro fuel is helpful. The opening straight is longer than most.
Brake hard, because there are three sharp turns: Sharp right, sharp left, sharp
right. Stay on the road so you can accelerate quickly for the very lengthy
straightaway up ahead. Gentle left, sharp right, right hairpin. Short straight,
challenging chicane. Another tough chicane, followed by a sharp right turn.
Sharp left, medium straight. The final curve sweeps for a while (almost
identical to the one at Portugal). All that work gets us to the very beginning.
Hungary (Hungaroring)
I've never really cared much for this track, although it's not too tough in
this game. The opening straight leads to a sustained sharp right. Don't go too
fast. After a medium straightaway is a sharp left that requires real braking
action. Then there's a long straight with intermittent gentle curves. The left
turn ahead is one of those that starts gentle and gets sharper, but this one is
kind of fun. A medium straight leads to one of the game's sharpest chicanes.
Take it slowly. Of course, you could just cut through the corner, since
nobody's going to be giving you a black flag or a stop-and-go penalty. The left
turn ahead isn't too sharp. Stay alert to stay on the road when you come to the
next right. Then comes a gentle left and a sharper right. A straightaway ends
in a right turn. Then comes a short straight and a very sharp left. The track
ends in a sustained right turn. Hold down right on the control pad and you'll
be okay.
Canada (Montreal)
Here's an interesting track, but it can be difficult. Nitro fuel isn't very
useful here. Canada is the shortest track in the game (although not in real
life). It starts with a mini-chicane and a quick left, but after that you'll
have to slow down for the hairpin (unless you want to slam into the nearby
wall). A short straight leads to a quick chicane. Then you'll be going back and
forth: Right, left, right. With practice and proper setup, you won't lose any
speed. Two very gentle rights break up the next straightaway before coming to a
gentle chicane. The hairpin ahead requires significant braking. Then there's a
short straight and a quick right. After a duo of chicanes, you're back at the
finish line.
France (Magny-Cours)
Magny-Cours is one of the last tracks to offer long straightaways. This is the
longest track in the game (although not in real life). If you have a choice,
use an engine that's more speed-oriented (Honda, Renarty, or Foro) than
acceleration-oriented. Nitro fuel is highly recommended. There are several
gentle curves (mostly rights) early. Then you'll reach a lengthy straightaway.
Brake heavily for the hairpin and proceed to the next long straight. This one
has a few gentle curves, though. The hairpin at the end isn't too tough and
doesn't always even necessitate braking. You guessed it: There's another long
straight. At the end, there's a gentle right, a sweeping left, a sharp right,
and yet another long straightaway. Watch out for the chicane, though. After a
quick right, you've completed a lap. Naughty Note: You can save some time by
cutting the sharpest hairpin (but look out for the barrier).
Belgium (Spa-Francorchamps)
I like this track. If you've ever watch real Formula One racing here, you know
the opening turn is sharp. Brake as soon (or before) you see the sign appear on
the screen. Go along the straightaway. Don't be fooled by the little left turn;
there's a sharp right and a left ahead. After that you'll be going straight for
a little while, although there are a couple of gentle turns. A sharp right is
immediately followed by a less sharp left and a right. Get ready to slow down
for the hairpin, which is followed by a medium left and a sharp left. Soon
you'll face a succession of sharp turns: right, left, right. The final right is
sharp and long. There are a few gentle curves up ahead. The track concludes
with the famous Bus Stop chicane (which was remodeled and basically eliminated
this year). It'll be okay if you don't try to overcorrect before the next part
of it. After that, you're back at the start.
Australia (Adelaide)
The turns start getting a little sharper for this course. At this point, tire
upgrades and downforce boosts (using wings and diffusers) are helpful. The
toughest part of the course is immediately after the opening straightaway. A
gentle left is followed by a sharp right, sharp left, sharp right, gentle left,
quick right. After that things are simpler: a long straight, a quick right, and
another very long straightaway. At the end of the straight, watch out for a
very sharp hairpin. You might need to slow down to 160 M.P.H. to stay on the
road. However, it can also be advantageous to cut some of the corner. A short
straight is followed by a sharp left. Then there's a comparatively mild hairpin
(no braking required), and that's that.
U.S.A. (Phoenix)
This road course is different from all the other courses in the game, because
the walls are very close to the road (it's a road course). For that reason,
going off the road will usually cause damage (and tremendous loss of speed).
Also, most of the turns are precisely 90 degrees. The opening straight leads to
a sharp right with a very close wall. The next sharp left gives you even less
room for error. There's a chicane ahead; don't try to breeze through. After a
short straightaway is a hairpin, but fortunately it's one of the few places
here with a sizable runoff area. Next is a quick right that also has some room
for error. The quick left should be of no problem. Then comes a "square" area:
sharp right, sharp left, sharp left, sharp right. You'll smash your car if you
go off the road on any of those, so exercise caution. The course ends with a
simple, sweeping left curve.
Monaco (Monte Carlo)
If you like twisty tracks, this one's for you. After the opening straight is a
quick sharp right, followed by a medium straight with a few gentle curves. Next
is a quick left and a sharp right. Then comes a hairpin - go slowly. Then
another hairpin. If you go to fast, you'll hit the wall. Two sharp rights come
next. There's a slightly curvy straightaway (where the tunnel should be), then
a chicane. A short straight ends with a quick left. Then there are two chicanes
and close proximity (a little like the Bus Stop). The sharp left ahead is tough
and doesn't have much runoff (like at the U.S.A. course). Go slowly. Afterwards
are two sharp rights, and that's it.
Japan (Suzuka)
A challenging track with a variety of turns. There are back-to-back sharp
rights right after the opening straightaway, followed by several
gentle-to-medium curves that swing you left and right. After a medium straight
comes a fairly sharp right. Another medium straight ends with a quick right.
Slow down to about 200 M.P.H., as a hairpin is coming up very soon. There's a
short straight, and then a long right. After that are two rather sharp lefts.
There's a long straightaway ahead, but beware of the "three-way" chicane at the
end. The first part requires some braking. That's the last turn of the last
track.
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Record Times [RECOR]
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Here are some tough lap times to beat for each track. These times were recorded
using optimal equipment (including four liters of nitro fuel and "special"
tires). There's still a ghost of a chance that you can beat some of these.
Italy 31.42
Great Britain 39.70
Germany 35.20
Brazil 43.33
San Marino 34.45
Spain 45.45
Portugal 42.92
Mexico 35.08
Hungary 41.97
Canada 26.45
France 51.85
Belgium 38.60
Australia 30.45
U.S.A. 32.52
Monaco 36.00
Japan 35.33
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Game Genie Codes [GENIE]
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CODE(S) TO ENTER WHAT IT DOES
BA26-A44F Start with $0
3C26-AF4F + CB26-AF1F + D426-AF3F Start with $5,240
3C26-AF4F + CB26-AF1F + D626-AF3F Start with $20,600
3C26-AF4F + CB26-AF1F + 0D26-AF3F Start with $163,960
3C26-AF4F + CB26-AF1F + 6D26-AF3F Start with $327,800
3C26-AF4F + CB26-AF1F + EE26-AF3F Start with $652,920
C9A8-07DD No damage when hitting walls
C922-0FDD No damage when hitting other cars
DDEE-6F21 Normal tires are free
DDEE-6491 High-grip tires are free
DDEE-6F91 Rain tires are free
DDED-A491 2L nitro is free
DDED-A421 3L nitro is free
DDED-A791 4L nitro is free
DDEE-6721 + DDED-ADF1 Foro V8 engine is free
DDED-AD91 + DDED-ADB1 Ilmoa V8 engine is free
DDED-AD21 + DDED-AFF1 Renarty V10 engine is free
DDE3-6791 Low-DF rear wing is free
DDEE-6D91 + DDEE-6DB1 High-DF rear wing is free
DDE3-6D21 Low-DF front wing is free
DDE3-6F21 + DDE3-64F1 High-DF front wing is free
DDE3-6491 + DDE3-64B1 Special-L front wing is free
DDE2-6421 Small diffuser is free
DDE2-6721 Large diffuser is free
DDE3-6D91 + DDE3-6DB1 Special diffuser is free
DDE2-6F21 Hard suspension is free
DDE2-6491 + DDE2-64B1 Active suspension is free
DDE2-6D91 Carbon brakes are free
DDE2-6D21 + DDE2-6FF1 Antilock brakes are free
DDEA-6491 5-speed transmission is free
DDEA-6421 + DDEA-67F1 6-speed transmission is free
DDEA-6791 + DDEA-67B1 7-speed transmission is free
DDEA-6D21 + DDEA-6FF1 Type 2 chassis is free
DDEA-6F91 + DDEA-6FB1 Type 3 chassis is free
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Comparing with Reality [FORM1]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
All 16 courses in F1 Roc: Race of Champions exist in real life. The seven
drivers you compete with in races are fictitious, but A. Seta is undoubtably
Ayrton Senna, while N.J. Myden is Nigel Mansell. R. Pakula is probably Nelson
Piquet. Seven of the eight team names were real: BEN (Benetton), FER (Ferrari),
JOR (Jordan), LEY (Leyton House), McL (McLaren), TYR (Tyrrell), and WIL
(Williams) You drive for the SET team, which is evidently SETA, the company
that produced the game (even though the car carrier in Grand Prix mode says
"Flamingo"). The real names of engines are Ford (Foro), Ilmor (Ilmoa), Judd
(Jadd), Renault (Renarty), Ferrari (Ferari), and Honda (the same).
This is the actual order for Formula One events in the 1991 season. You can
safely skip this section.
Event F1 Roc Actual Formula One Order
USA (Phoenix) 14 1
Brazil (Sao Paulo) 4 2
San Marino (Imola) 5 3
Monaco (Monte Carlo) 15 4
Canada (Montreal) 10 5
Mexico (H. Rodriguez) 8 6
France (Magny-Cours) 11 7
Britain (Silverstone) 2 8
Germany (Hockenheim) 3 9
Hungary (Hungaroring) 9 10
Belgium (Spa) 12 11
Italy (Monza) 1 12
Portugal (Estoril) 7 13
Spain (Catalunya) 6 14
Japan (Suzuka) 16 15
Australia (Adelaide) 13 16
Only nine of these tracks (and twelve of the countries) hosted actual F1 events
in 2007.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Copyright/Contact Information [COPYR]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
(c) 2007 Vinny Hamilton. All rights reserved. All lefts are not reserved.
All trademarks mentioned herein are copyrights of their respective holders.
You can print this guide out for your personal use.
You can download this guide to your computer for your personal use.
You can translate this guide into foreign languages (British, Southern,
Australian, and New Yorker are not considered foreign languages) and post the
translation on your Web site.
You can post this guide on your Web site as long as you give proper credit AND
you don't change a single letter, number, or symbol (not even a tilde).
Remember that the latest version will always be available at GameFAQs.com, but
again don't count on there being updates.
You can't post this guide on your Web site and say you wrote the guide yourself.
You can't post this guide on Web sites that contain (or have links to sites
that contain) explicit photography of naked humans.
You can't post this guide on your Web site if you're going to change anything
in this guide that took me so many hours to write.
If you don't comply with these guidelines, your hard drive will be reformatted
(permanently erased) inexplicably and you will suffer from constipation for the
rest of your life. Heed this warning.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
In the unlikely event that you have questions or comments about this guide,
send an e-mail to [email protected]. Remember that not all e-mails will be
accepted. Please follow these rules:
Do include "F1 Roc" in the subject line.
Do send polite suggestions for ways to make this walkthrough better.
Do send information about any glitches, tricks, or codes you find.
Do ask any questions you have about F1 ROC: Race of Champions. I will answer
them eventually if you follow all of these rules.
Do make a reasonable effort to use decent spelling, grammar, usage,
punctuation, and capitalization.
Do use patience. I check my messages rather sporadically.
Do not send spam, pornography, chain letters, "flaming," or anything that
contains profanity or vulgarity. Again, violation of this rule will result in
permanent constipation.
P.S.: There isn't a better 12 pages of 10-point Courier New text on the
Internet.
P.P.S.: Guides for Donkey Kong 64, Zelda: Twilight Princess, and Zelda: Ocarina
of Time (Master Quest) may appear in the months to come. In the meantime, so
long, farewell, good-bye... and that kind of thing.
